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Victor Glemaud Fashions Clothing Into Joy at the Rockefeller Rink for Spring 2023

Rockefeller Center’s Flipper’s Roller Boogie Palace — which has been lowered like a basement beneath Manhattan’s bustling avenues — hosted fashion’s esteemed editors and influencers behind carpets of flowers that set the stage for Victor Glemaud’s Spring 2023 show. Enthusiastic eyes of New Yorkers and writhing tourists stood waiting for the outline above. The DJ dropped a funky beat, and out came several roller skaters, dancing and decked out in the designer’s Pre-Fall 2022 line.

Inspired by a recent trip to the Bahamas, the spring collection is heavily inspired by Harbor Island and is filled with two-piece bikinis, sheer cover-ups, bodycon dresses with keyhole cutouts and glorious capes.

The Haitian-American designer is an architect of beauty, knitwear his chosen medium. Before founding his eponymous label in 2006, Glemaud began his career as a design assistant to Patrick Robinson while studying at the Fashion Institute of Technology in New York City; he went on to work as a publicist, studio director and style director before launching Victor Glemaud.

victor glemaud spring 2023 hats

The accessories are also striking. Locally made “Rita Raffia” hats brought mystique into a variety of looks. David Yurman anklets shimmered subtly on models glittering in cosmic silver Jimmy Choo shoes, flat or maxed out with heels. Big and bold sunglasses pay tribute to Miles Davis’ style. Silver crocodile bags sparkled in the sun.

In 31 looks, the latest CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund 2017 finalist continues a trend of minimalist color in his recent designs: instead of mixing bright hues and color blocking, spring 2023 comes in a limited palette – deep black, bubblegum pink, cloud white or jacquard leopard – on looks from head to toe, which creates a sense of sophistication while allowing us to appreciate other details of the garments.

Inside there is a most fashionable innovation. The collection features a new translucent silk crochet, which is common in the opening looks, which I would like to wear. From afar, the lines drip neatly along the silhouette of the body; up close it’s a brilliant geometric pattern.

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victor glemaud spring 2023 sheer knit

Each look has a subtle boldness alongside sportswear-inspired elements, fearlessly embracing the wearer’s curves. By using fine materials and creating garments that connect you with your body, and by changing the way you move to stimulate your self-confidence, Glemaud wanted to shape the joy itself.

“Spring makes you exhale and brings joy. I want every look, every element of this collection and show to put a smile on your face,” Glemaud wrote in the show notes.

victor glemaud spring 2023 look 32 pt 1

Also in the notes: Glemaud attributes inspiration to sportswear pioneers – Bill Blass, Giorgio Sant’Angelo, Stephen Burrows, Geoffrey Beene. The carpets that served as runways were created in collaboration with interior design company Schumacher, with whom the designer has collaborated in the past.

Towards the end of the show, audience members were rocking as Janet Jackson’s “Together Again” came on. Models emerged for one last walk in all their knitted glory. Roller skaters returned to dance, cheer and sing along to the music the DJ made in his energetic sets. The lavish runway ended as those in attendance lingered for more, both the seated viewers and those looking in from the street.

Check out the entire Victor Glemaud Spring 2023 collection in the gallery below.

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