Spring 2023 turns a new page in the Matthew Williams era at Givenchy – this was teased in a much-discussed New York Times profile of the designer by Jessica Testa, published Saturday ahead of the brand’s show. It’s worth reading, especially as supplemental text to the collection: she writes about speculation about Williams’ contract with LVMH, the reception his work has received for the brand and, crucially, plans for a turnaround.
The direction for spring, Testa explains in the piece, is “leaner and sexier — or “feminine and sophisticated,” as Mr. Williams put it — with less of a gritty New Yorker girl vibe and more of his new Parisian chic. … as if his intensity is hooked up to Google Translate. (Or as if he suddenly has more female colleagues.)” The show was styled by Carine Roitfeld, adding another very specific sensibility (and feminine POV) to the whole collection.
The spring show — held at the Jardin des Plantes in Paris not long after the skies opened up and rain poured down on guests seeking their seats — evolves some of the codes Williams has introduced since he took over Givenchy. There’s still an edge (as seen in leather harness bra tops, sharp-shouldered shirts, low-slung bottoms), but the pieces feel like they’ll fit into a woman’s wardrobe very easily: a flounce hem slip that can be styled with a blazer or worn separately, tweed pieces that suit different occasions, dresses with a touch or something but still look and feel uncomplicated.
Part of Williams’ appeal as a designer has always been his ability to read the zeitgeist and understand what customers are drawn to – in the case of this collection we see plenty of Y2K referential looks fueling the hunger for nostalgia (think to low-high cargo shorts and long denim skirts).
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It’ll be interesting to see how Givenchy’s Spring 2023 collection translates into retail: what’s selling, what people are responding to, and what it could tell us about the future of the home.
Check out the entire Givenchy Spring 2023 collection in the gallery below.
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This post Matthew Williams speaks with Parisian woman for Givenchy spring 2023
was original published at “https://fashionista.com/2022/10/givenchy-spring-2023-collection”