Marc Jacobs Runway 2022 – Fashionista

Back in the day—before a global pandemic raged and the economy was on an almost constant slump and the fashion system threatened to bring down the fashion system—Marc Jacobs was the designer who closed New York Fashion Week. He would take over the Lexington armory and at exactly 6pm (usually anyway) he would present his latest collection, initially set amongst ornate decor, but over time he moved on to using only the sparse space of the room. .

Lately, however, Jacobs has started doing what he wants, when he wants. After his fall 2020 collection – the last to be presented on the calendar – the designer took a big step back to reflect on the future of his brand, from the future of runway shows to how he thinks about making clothes.

“We certainly don’t show it that way [we had been]† Last season already very few people showed up in New York, very few people showed up in New York. The idea of ​​everyone getting on a plane and coming to a show — from models to makeup artists to editors to journalists — that’s just unrealistic to think about right now,” he said at an April 2020 Vogue conference. just don’t think that if this picks up, everyone will just get back on the plane and back on the train and back on the bus to come to a show. We have to be patient with the process. […] What I do and the clothes I make and the way we present a show, it feels like that will probably never exist as we know it, the way we did.”

His only show since then was for the Fall 2021 collection, which was presented at the New York Public Library last summer. It was a collection that felt both cheerful and protective, filled with layered puffers and knits, rave-ready flashy fabrics and oversized reflective discs, black and white swirls mixed with his logo blown up to massive proportions.

Those ideas continue in the line he surprised Friday morning, simply dubbed “Runway 2022.” In just 10 looks – all rendered in that same stark black-and-white palette, mixed with denim – Jacobs expands on these concepts; there are maxi-length skirts with frayed details, shredded strips of fabric that form long-sleeved tops and scarf-like wraps, huge puffer vests and jackets that cover the models. The sequins are shrunk back and used in skin-concealing tops; the logo, on the other hand, gets even bigger with trousers and an oversized scarf. What fell through, however, was (somewhat obvious) the track format.

While he had said on the fall 2021 show that “my love of fashion, the desire to create and share collections through this delivery system – the catwalk – continues,” Jacobs instead presented the Runway 2022 line via… WeTransfer. There are no show notes, no hint as to what ideas are driving the collection, not even an indication of whether the name “Runway 2022” means it’s the only collection we’ll see from Jacobs this year.

It’s smart for designers to consider what works for them in this current landscape and ignore what can be expected of them if it doesn’t make sense to the business. Still, New York Fashion Week doesn’t feel quite the same without Jacobs on the runway — and while a surprise drop certainly involves a bit of drama, the emotion of Jacobs’ clothes isn’t compressed into a ZIP file as easily as the gorgeous images do.

Check out the full Marc Jacobs Runway 2022 collection in the gallery below:

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