Photo: MIGUEL MEDINA/AFP/Getty Images
In many ways, Alessandro Michele is a man who refuses to be boxed in, which was probably a big part of his appeal to Gucci when they pushed him to take over the creative lead in 2015. It turns out, Given how eager Michele is to play with the iconographies of other brands, that refusal means that he limits himself to working only with the codes of the Italian house. There have been blockbuster collaborations (err, “hacking labs”, in some cases) with Balenciaga and North Face, as well as playful use of imagery from organizations as different as Major League Baseball and Disney.
The next strange bedfellow to take up residence at Gucci is none other than sportswear giant Adidas. It’s a natural combination, when you consider that each counts a three-stripe motif among their trademarks, something Michele says he’s been playing to since he took over seven years ago. “I often thought of Adidas in my work, that was a hidden desire,” he said Friday at a press conference after the runway in the fall of 2022. “I used pop symbols, I mixed things, I developed hybrids; three stripes for Adidas and for Gucci.”
Of course, as Michele acknowledged, “the fashion world is a tough one” — especially when it comes to trademark protection, that critical hurdle (not to mention potential legal landmines) to bringing pop icons together. But where there’s a (company-backed) will, there’s a (financially beneficial) way: The Gucci Fall 2022 collection features plenty of pieces featuring those famous three stripes, as well as Adidas’ trefoil logo. They run through the middle of baseball caps, the sides of Gucci-branded capes, the fronts of sharp-cut bodices. The trefoil is wrapped over silk scarves, embroidered on the pocket of blazers, hidden in the print on trousers. But for Michele, it’s not another cynical partnership to grab money to make the headlines and the bottom line; it’s just how he thinks when he comes to the design table.
“Today we call this a partnership — I know the marketing department calls them that — but that’s how I started seven years ago,” he said. “I’ve tried to interpret it my way, and the result may seem simple, but I think the idea is really powerful.”
Michele also broke outside the expected box elsewhere in the collection. While the fall 2022 runway marked the first time the brand in its home city of Milan has shown in person on the official women’s clothing calendar since its fall 2020 show, Michele instead showcased a menswear-forward collection — as far as any of his collections go. real can be sex anyway.
“I thought it would be interesting to have a men’s collection during women’s week because we are so open to dialogue,” he said. “I had prepared a men’s collection and I wanted to give a specific male image; my male world is very broad, I wanted to come back to this, to tell about this world.”
The starting point for the collection, as Michele says it has always been for him, was the fitting, noting that women like to wear men’s suits, and vice versa. Playing with that Adidas iconography, he turned out to have suits with the same laid-back feel as one of the brand’s famous tracksuits, a clever combination of the two labels. There are also sets worthy of the coolest dandies, such as an electric purple suit with wide black lapels and turned up black cuffs.
There was a predominant ’80s and early ’90s vibe throughout the collection, from Gordon-Gecko banker shirts to embellished leather jackets straight out of a music video; from suits made to be seen in the New Romantics at London’s Blitz club to cuffed jackets and giant earrings that could have been ripped right out of New York’s burgeoning hip-hop scene (ruled by Dapper Dan, another Gucci employee ). “In the ’80s we looked to the future, we never looked to the past. There was a lot of energy in those years – think about the haircuts,” Michele says. He refers to the clubs of his youth, which were “locations for metamorphosis” […] places where we could really experiment.”
But where other designers might mine their youth from a more emotional perspective, for Michele his youth is just another point of reference in a spirit that suits them. “I don’t think I’m a nostalgic person because I really like life,” he said. He is as influenced by what he sees on the street today as a painting in a museum or a piece of philosophical text from his library. It’s a mindset that allows him to seamlessly reference a 1993 photo of Madonna in an Adidas dress, as well as a Victorian-era Italian Countess who wore striped dresses in one collection, and make it all make sense. .
“I like the quest, the process,” he said. “I was thinking about my way of putting together collections, they are polymorphic; I seek order in disorder. They become messengers of our contradictions.”
Check out the entire Gucci Fall 2022 collection in the gallery below:
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This post Gucci Fall 2022 Collection – Fashionista
was original published at “https://fashionista.com/2022/02/gucci-fall-2022-adidas-collection-review”