Season after season, Maria Grazia Chiuri finds a way to integrate feminism into her design inspiration at Dior. This season comes that courtesy of “The Next Era,” a gallery of paintings by visual artist Mariella Bettineschi depicting female portraits ranging from the 16th to the 19th century: “Their eyes, carved and duplicated, question the judgment that has conditioned — and still terms – women.” It served as the backdrop for the runway and as a slogan on T-shirts and gloves.
One way Chiuri hasn’t addressed feminism in her collections is by showcasing them on a wider range of bodies.
Over the years – she joined the house in 2016 – the designer has ignored the massive shift in body diversity around her in the wider fashion industry (which, to be fair, hasn’t caught on very much in Paris), and it has gathered to make her feminist overtures feel hollow. Perhaps one of the strongest, most feminist statements Chiuri could make on her runways would be to use models of different sizes, of different ages and with different gender identities. Unfortunately, she has yet to do that. At this point, it’s hard not to read it as a deliberate refusal to meaningfully embrace diversity.
That aside, Chiuri brought in Italian start-up D-Air Lab to incorporate fashion technology into her fall 2022 designs for Dior. The Bar jacket gets an upgrade with technical inserts and the accessories get a sporty twist, from low heels to opera-length gloves. They create an almost armor-like feel, which comes into play further through high-waisted pants and skirts and corset straps that squeeze at the waist. They’re not the best pieces in the collection, but they certainly make a statement. Stronger are the looks towards the end of the show, which reinforce Chiuri’s strong skills: elegant suits and pleated evening wear.
Check out the entire Christian Dior Fall 2022 collection in the gallery below.
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This post Christian Dior Fall 2022 Collection was original published at “https://fashionista.com/2022/03/christian-dior-fall-2022-collection-review”